Corset Silhouette
The corset has changed greatly through the years. Below are some examples of how the torso (rib cage through hips) has been altered to fit into styles of clothing. I may be adding Tudor and Elizabethan styles later. I want to concentrate on corsets that are mainly designed to reduce the waistline.Hourglass
This feature makes this style an excellent choice for the occasional tightlacer. Unfortunately, this can give the wearer the appearance of an unnatural look to the waist line. Some people do not like this look, as it tends to make the torso take on the shape of a pillow being cinched in by a belt. But this is when the wearer has a great difference in measurements between the hips, waist, and chest.
Pipe-Stem
This is an extremely advanced type of corset. Due to the extreme pressure on the lower, floating ribs, the wearer must be an accomplished tight lacer. The best candidate for this style of corset is someone who has been corseting since a very early age ( early teens), it will take years for the person to achieve this type of torso modification. Our bones are soft and pliable when we are young. As we get older, or bones become stiffer, and it will take more time and energy to conform your body to a severe type of corset such as this.
I have yet to see a pipe-stem corset as depicted in publications such as "London Life" and John Willies' "Bizarre", with 4" - 6" waist length. I believe this type of corset mainly existed in fiction.
Even if this style of corset only existed in fiction, it can be made. I can include a pipestem in your next corset. Just ask, and I will add it to your design, free of charge. But be warned, this adds more strain on the wearer's lower ribs. A pipestem should only be used on those that truly waist train, and are accustomed to the 24-hour compression.
Straight-Front or S-Curve
At least, this is what the corset was primarily designed to do at first.
But then, us tightlacers, corsetiere's, and dress designers, realized that this style of corset can allow an even smaller waist. When this corset is tightened to the compression needed for serious lacing, the chest is thrust out, and the hips are thrown back. As shown in the drawing, tight-lacing this style of corset created the S-Curve, "kangaroo", or "Gibson" profile. This odd shape was due to the strategic points where the inflexible steels were placed, the cut of the fabric, and tighter lacing than what Gaches-Sarraute and doctors recommended using.
But then, us tightlacers, corsetiere's, and dress designers, realized that this style of corset can allow an even smaller waist. When this corset is tightened to the compression needed for serious lacing, the chest is thrust out, and the hips are thrown back. As shown in the drawing, tight-lacing this style of corset created the S-Curve, "kangaroo", or "Gibson" profile. This odd shape was due to the strategic points where the inflexible steels were placed, the cut of the fabric, and tighter lacing than what Gaches-Sarraute and doctors recommended using.
Construction-wise, how was this look achieved? First off, what is rarely documented, is that it is the shape and cut of the fabric pieces in conjunction with the stiffness and placement of the boning that gives the shape of the garment. NOT the bones themselves. The most complicated, custom tailored corsets used up to 24, individually cut pieces of fabric for each side. Theses pieces were expertly tailored with complicated curves that marked the height of complicated corset design.
If you look closely at the drawings above, you will see thin, dark blue lines. These depict some of the seams used to achieve the shape of the corset. You will also notice that it looks much more complicated than the hourglass, wasp, etc. These complicated patterns was used to redistribute the stress off the abdomen and place it on the sides. Also, wide hip panels was used to broaden the hips.
You will also notice wider, bright blue lines. steels running up the front and back of the corset. These depict the inflexible steels running up the front and back of the corset. By using an inflexible busk and supporting steels, the corset avoids much of the compression which occurs over the abdomen when a lighter, less stiff busk and supporting steels are used. By using the stiffened busk, much of the pressure is off the abdomen and redistributed onto the sides of the waistline. This is to alleviate problems such as indigestion, cramps, and heartburn. The thinner blue lines depict flexible boning to help control the hips and torso.
I would like to say at this point that this is a most unhealthy style of corset for the tightlacing woman. The rigid underbusk in conjunction with the supporting steels, put a great deal of pressure on the lower abdomen and womb. So much so, that some unfortunate ladies, would have a prolapsed or sagging uterus, causing it the invert and protrude from the vagina. There were some remedies for this, such as the pessary. A pessary is a truss-like arrangement with a rod that is placed inside the vaginal cavity. The purpose of the rod is to support the sagging womb. This horrible condition and device should be avoided at all costs, and it is up to the competent corset designer to prevent this.
True, there are a few contemporary corset manufacturers that do list "straight-front" corsets, they do not contain the overly-stiff stays of yesterday. Some even are so flimsy, that the lower abdomen billows out from under the waist section.
That said, I would like to add that I have no desire to reproduce the straight front corsets of the early 1900's. As a corset designer and tightlacer, I can personally say that these are really not geared towards modern clothing styles and life-style (not to mention the health risks). However, in the following style, you will read that I have added some of the healthful benefits to my designs.
The Wasp Creations Shape
The Wasp torso creates a gradual tapering of the chest to the waistline. It makes the waist longer and in many people's opinion, sexier than the hourglass. To achieve this look, the corset puts more pressure on the lower, floating ribs. The floating ribs will give, and in time, your rib cage will look like that of the corset. As you have read above, the Wasp shape is a bit constrictive on the ribs and a bit difficult to wear for the novice or occasional tight-lacer. In my designs, I take into account that not everyone has the desire to live in their corsets 24 hours a day. Therefore, I allow a little extra room for the floating ribs while still giving the erotically tapered, wasp shape.
The pipe-stem in my designs are more like a short waist line. I place a 1/2" waistline in all of the corsets I make for females. I make the corset comfortable to wear, yet still retain the Wasp shape. For males, I forgo the pipestem, yet still retain the wasp torso. For more information on corsetry for men visit the male corsetry page. If you are an accomplished tightlacer, and would like a longer pipestem, like 1 or 1 1/2", just ask, and I will add it to your corset at no extra cost. Just ask. A 1" or 1 1/2" pipestem may not sound like much, but it dramatically effects the shape and appearance of the corset.
My corsets employ a stiff underbusk. Much stiffer than what most other corsetieres use. This is to alleviate most of the pressure on the abdomen when tight lacing and placing more constriction on the sides of the waist. Resulting in a thinner profile. If the front of the corset is too flexible, it will cave in the tummy and cause severe cramps, heartburn, constipation, gas, and other things proper ladies and gentlemen should not have to endure while corseted. Also, the stiffened underbusk puts gentle pressure on the lower abdomen, preventing the unsightly protruding belly so commonly seen in modern corsets. The pressure presented on the lower belly is not so great as to cause problems associated with the traditional straight-front corsets. The Underbusks that I make in house are as stiff or stiffer than what was used in straight front corsets. The pattern is not cut the same way as the Straight-Front corset, so you won't get the odd "Gibson" stance nor the health risks.
For more information on the specifics of my corsetry designs, please visit the Articles page.